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Factory Bluetooth Retrofit

  • Model & Year: 95-01 7-Series, U.S.
  • Expertise: Intermediate
  • Date: January 29, 2017
  • Updated: February 20, 2020
  • Time Estimate: 4-8 hours

Tools Required

  • Basic hand tools
  • NavCoder software (optional)

Facilities Needed

  • None

Parts Required

Parts needed
  • BMW Bluetooth TCU: p/n varies, price (used): $100 - $150.
  • DB25-to-54-pin Adaptor: p/n 84-12-0-308-375, price: $37 (list).
  • BMW Bluetooth Antenna: p/n 84-50-6-928-461, price: $26 (list).
  • FAKRA "B" or "Z" Cable: 4' minimum length, price: $6-$12 (on eBay).
NOTE: Although the factory adaptor has been discontinued, you can Make a DB25-to-54-Pin Adaptor

Getting Started

Replacing the useless stock phone system in your BMW with a factory, hands-free "Bluetooth" system is a fantastic way to modernize your car, gain practical benefits, and fully utilize your onboard electronics.

Aftermarket BT devices (such as Grom and MediaBridge) require your radio to be continuously on and in CD mode in order to function. But a factory BT system operates independently, in the background and always at the ready. In addition, the CD changer line remains open (for use as an MP3 music source or aux-in, for example). So, you can finally use all your car's electronics including the built-in microphone (in the headliner) and steering wheel controls, plus view extensive phone information on your nav screen or MID display. What could be better?!

There are two different ways to achieve this:

  1. ULF (Universal Hands-Free): Compatible with most BMW's regardless of installed electronics and model year; Requires phone pairing button; Accepts optional phone-specific cradles (in center of armrest) which charge your phone while boosting its signal thru the roof antenna; However, ULF's are expensive and hard to find; Requires more installed parts.
  2. TCU (Telephone Control Unit): Partially compatible with E38's thru 08/00 but fully compatible after that; No pairing button (pair within two minutes of starting your car); Cradles optional; Cheaper and more numerous than ULF's; Fewer installed parts required.

Considering cost, simplicity, and my car's model year, I chose to install a TCU. While the good folks at BimmerNav offer TCU kits for over $900, a TCU retrofit - as described here - can cost under $200. For the ultimate in sophistication and convenience, consider Phone Charging & Signal Boosting.

BMW made several different ULF's and TCU's over the years. Compatible TCU's were made starting in late 2004, with the most recent being p/n 84-10-9-195-455 (from 3/08 and still available from BMW). For a summary, see BMW TCU and ULF Part Numbers.

There are some limitations:

  • Compatible ULF's and TCU's are made for voice communications, not music streaming. Only the latest TCU's offer streaming, but they're not compatible with the E38 7-series. However, there are workarounds:
    • Install an aux-input in place of the CD changer, for phone-based music. (This method avoids A2DP compression losses from streaming music.)
    • Install a Grom exclusively for wireless streaming. (The factory Bluetooth system mutes radio audio during a call, and should thereby take "priority" over the Grom.)
    • For cars with navigation: swap in a "New Generation" radio with audio streaming dongle.

  • Navigation voice control will be lost for E38's built before 09/00 unless a ULF is installed. From 09/00, voice control can be shared with navigation after simple coding with NavCoder software. See Using NavCoder for instructions.

  • If your BMW is not equipped with DSP sound, you will need a supplemental amplifier in order to obtain suitable volume from your phone. See Factory Bluetooth Retrofit - Supplement. There are also similar instructions on BimmerNav.

The information here should be applicable to several BMW models that were pre-wired for phone from the late '90's-on.

TCU Specifics

Used TCU's are commonly available on eBay. Beware some sellers claim "Bluetooth" when in fact the TCU is an older, non-BT unit. Confirm Bluetooth by the label:

TCU label

Look for the Bluetooth logo (left center) and "PK" (Pass Key) code. This code is required to pair your phone. If this label is missing or illegible, do NOT buy it! The two peel-off labels will most likely be missing. This is OK.

Verify "BMW....IBUS", as only i-bus units are compatible with the E38 7-series. The production date (above: January 13, 2007) will relate to the software and hardware version ("SW" and "HW", respectively). Look for late production dates to obtain the newest technology.


The BMW cable which connects the BT antenna to the TCU (p/n 61-12-0-137-616) is a FAKRA cable that was discontinued on 6/3/16. Not to worry. This is a generic part and may also be purchased on eBay. You will need a female-female B-type (color: white) or universal Z-type (color: aqua) with 4' minimum length, in size RG174.

If other types of cable are used, the connector may not fit the keyed ends of the TCU's BT antenna. If this happens, the keys may be removed by filing them away. But do NOT remove the retainer tab. See image below:

Mounting the BT Antenna

The perfect location for the BT antenna is inside the left (driver-side) C-pillar, just below the passenger courtesy light. Running the FAKRA cable thru the trunk pass-thru is surprisingly easy compared to some cars.

Unfortunately, removing trim pieces for access will result in broken fasteners. The question is how many. Follow my instructions to minimize the damage.

Mounting the TCU

Unlike the ULF, a factory trunk mounting bracket is unavailable for a Bluetooth TCU in an E38 7-series. For those interested in a clean install (like me), a random tie-wrap solution is unacceptable. An adaptor board can be made from plywood, and mounted on either the outer "video" bracket or in place of the CD changer (if not used). See Bluetooth TCU Installation below for details.

Note the Bluetooth TCU is a large device. It's too big to fit in place of the old TCU. If mounted as suggested, it must sit as low as possible on the bracket. If mounted on the video bracket, the TCU still contacts the taillight access door. But leaving this door ajar isn't an issue, since it's not visible after closing the larger nav access door.


Trim Removal

1) Start by removing the nav computer (if applicable). Allow computer's red light to extinguish BEFORE proceeding. Insert radio removal tools (or coat hangars) into slots to release retainers. Then, grasp black nav trim and pull firmly:

Nav removal

Once free, disconnect the two plugs and antenna wire. Set aside. Then, remove the black plastic trim surrounding the bracket's opening.

2) Release the two black plastic trim screws just right of both the nav and CD changer. Then, release the 1/4 turn fastener securing the taillight access door (left of nav opening). Now, remove left rear side trim by pulling out and up.

3) Pull out upper rivet on forward trim. Then, pull trim down to gain access to trunk wiring pass-thru (images above).

4) Moving on to C-pillar trim, lever out -- from the top -- the left passenger courtesy light and unplug. (Levering from the front will break the light's retainer clips. Ask me how I know.)

5) Release the three (3) now-visible trim retaining screws using an 8mm nut driver. See image below. Remove trim carefully by pulling out and up, in rocking motion. Afterwards, the trim will likely suffer from indentations in the (deteriorating) foam, left behind after handling. This is unavoidable. (It may be time to replace your headliner and pillar cover fabric.)

Prep Work

6) Survey your installed equipment. Remove your old TCU and associated phone parts from both the trunk and center armrest (if any). Install a blank center tray to replace any existing eject box, or install a universal eject box (see Phone Charging & Signal Boosting).

Your old TCU is likely behind the brass-color video bracket. Remove the three 8mm screws to release bracket, as shown in image above left (red arrows). Unplug old TCU and discard. (Don't bother listing it on eBay. It's worthless.) Newer cars may have TCU mounted in front, directly on video bracket, as in image below.

For late-build models (from 9/00), note also the SES voice module in image above. This module will handle voice control of both Bluetooth TCU and navigation (after NavCoder programming of TCU). Cars without SES (thru 8/00) will lose voice control for navigation after Bluetooth TCU installation unless a ULF is installed.

7) For cars build before 9/00 (which have no SES module), it will be necessary to jumper pins 11 and 14 in the black phone plug located under the center armrest. This sends phone audio to the front speakers. See image below. Pinout numbers are stamped on the connector.

Armrest plug

Additionally, open the DB25 plug (in trunk) and verify pin 22 is wired. If not, it will be necessary to jumper an i-bus wire into pin 15 of the 54-pin adapter (which adapts DB pin 22). The i-bus signal wire can be sourced/spliced from pin 3 of the CD changer power plug (also in trunk). See: Factory Bluetooth Retrofit - Supplement.

8) For cars built from 9/00 that did not have an SES module pre-installed (or had SES removed), verify the blue SES connector has a white jumper plug connected (p/n 84-11-0-018-038), as seen in image below. Also, in this case, it's necessary to jumper pins 11 and 14 as shown in step 7 above.

SES jumper plug

NOTE: Installing an SES module should enable voice control of both nav and phone, along with notepad, all without jumpering pins 11/14 in the armrest plug. By now, however, most existing SES modules have failed and may be at their lifecycle end. BMW sells an updated SES module (84-41-6-915-049) available new for $800. It's only rarely found on the used market (ex: eBay). Cars that were pre-wired for SES should have a "talking head" icon in place of the telephone icon printed on the left steering wheel button pad.

9) OPTIONAL (if necessary): Prepare new TCU and BT antenna for the FAKRA cable by filing off keyed metal ends of white coded connector of TCU and the black plastic keyed ends of BT antenna.

Bluetooth TCU Installation

10) Plug adaptor harness into DB25 connection from old TCU. Return video bracket and secure with screws. (Your Bluetooth TCU will not fit back there.) For video bracket installation: route 54-pin connector up through cut-out in bracket floor (see image below left). For CD bracket installation: route 54-pin connector underneath CD area.

11) Mount Bluetooth TCU and connect 54-pin adaptor. One mounting option is to tie-wrap it to the video bracket. A better solution is a plywood mounting board which attaches to either the video bracket or CD changer bracket. See image above right and sidebar below.

Building a TCU Mounting Board

Using thick 5/8" plywood or similar, cut a piece 5" x 11.5". Round off the upper corners to prevent cuts & bruises when reaching in to change a rear light bulb. Spray-on flat black paint for a finished look.

For video bracket: with board resting on bottom of bracket, mark the bracket attachment point in upper right corner. Drill a hole for a screw/clip or nut/bolt combo and countersink it using a 3/4" bit. (TCU will rest over this area.) For CD bracket: remove bracket, mark and drill two pilot holes in board at lower attachment points, to receive two screws (see image below right).

On a workbench, place TCU at the top of board and mark the four TCU screw locations. Drill four pilot holes sized for short, thick screws.

12) Insert coat hanger wire (or similar) in trunk pass-thru grommet, up into C-pillar area. Tape FAKRA cable to the wire and pull it back through into trunk.

13) Route FAKRA cable safely behind trunk electronics and connect to white coded terminal of mounted TCU.

14) Connect other end of FAKRA cable to BT antenna. Then, mount antenna just above white AM/FM amplifier by utilizing the T25 screw holding black plastic protective trim inside C-pillar. See image below:

15) Done! Before replacing trim, test your installation: Temporarily re-connect nav computer (if applicable). Switch ignition key to accessory and attempt to pair your phone (within two minutes) using the Pass Key (PK) printed on your TCU label. Once successful, take optional final steps using NavCoder software as below:

  • E38's thru 08/00 (without nav or SES): Confirm voice recognition ("VR") is enabled (most TCU's come this way). Set emergency call number (if desired).
  • E38's from 09/00 (with nav): Disable voice recognition (switch to SES, if installed). Set emergency call number (if desired).

16) Once satisfied, replace trim in reverse order. Finally note:

Now place a Bluetooth call to celebrate!


New Mic '762: I do not recommend this mic over stock simply because its noise-cancelling features cause audio cut-out upon low signal levels. This results in a completely silent "lost-signal" sound for the caller during conversational pauses, which leads to questions "...you still there?". To be heard better during a call, lean in towards the mic.

Audio/Volume with SES: For cars with SES modules, there are two different ways to control in-call volume: 1) phone, 2) system. System volume is only accessible by voice command, but not during a call. It has only three pre-sets: low, medium, high. System volume also sets the incoming call alert tone. A "high" tone can be quite startling when receiving a call. Furthermore, adjusting radio volume during a call has no affect. This leaves phone volume as the only effective volume control when in-call. To offset road noise, tighten the Speed Dependent Volume steps (SDV) when coding your TCU. See my NavCoder section for details.

Update (11/17): Since installing this TCU (software version 29, hardware 50) in my E38 last January, I have encountered occassional phonebook pairing problems and slow-to-pair behavior with my old Andriod phone. Address book pairing is a known problem with some older TCU's.

Update (10/18): After almost 2 years of use, I had to replace my previous TCU after it suddenly stopped working (locked-up audio system and froze nav screen). The newer unit (software version 37, hardware 50) provides noticable improvements. Phone and address book pairing are immediate, and nav screens respond quickly. So far, I'm very pleased. I now recommend SW/HW versions above 29/50 (see your TCU label).

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Willis, TX, USA